This week's Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge has us making what is perhaps Peter Reinhart's most innovative and unique bread recipe, Pain a l'Ancienne. What makes this recipe different from any other recipe we've tackled to date? We used ice water in this recipe. Ice water! I would have thought that the yeast would have been too busy looking for sweaters to do their job! And in a roundabout and very Mag-way of thinking, that is what happens. Mr. Reinhart, who coincidentally has a professional background in the science of bread baking instead of one in amateur blogging like myself, explains this in a much more technical manner in his book. By using ice cold water, we substantially delay the fermentation, enabling the sugar to break out of the starch before the yeast have their chance to feast. The resulting bread has a much more developed flavor than when standard fermentation practices are used.
This recipe started out easily enough. There are only four ingredients: bread flour, yeast, salt and ice water. All are mixed and kneaded, then placed in the refrigerator overnight. (That's when the yeast are too concerned about finding a sweater to bother with feeding themselves.) I removed my dough from the fridge at 8:00 this morning, thinking that with the two-three hour fermentation predicted, I'd have bread by lunch. Evidently my yeast were teenagers, and there must have been a lot of partying and sweater tossing going on in my fridge last night, because I could not get them to wake up this morning. Here's my dough at 11:00, three hours into fermentation.
WAKE UP!!! Time to rise and ... well.. RISE!
Finally at 1:00 I thought it looked like the dough had doubled, so I started the baguette making process. Oh my. Just.. oh... my. Sticky, wet, sticky, wet..wet..wet! I had flour and dough stuck on everything! There was no way this dough was going to allow me to shape it into anything resembling a baguette. As I was sweating and swearing it out and wondering what to do next, I remembered that this dough can also be used as pizza dough, so midstream I changed horses and decided we would be having pizza for lunch (late lunch, even.) I struggled to even get the dough off the counter and onto the pan. It was misshapen and sad looking when I finally got it in the oven. While I waited for my failure to bake, I sat down to do a little writing.
(HEE!)This story actually does have a happy ending folks. The pizza crust was some of the best I've ever tasted. Crispy where it needed to be crispy, and chewy where it needed to be chewy. And oh so full of flavor! A total unexpected success after what I thought was going to be such a complete disappointment.
I really think I was just too afraid to use as much flour as I needed to when I was trying to shape the dough. Had I used as much flour in trying to form the baguettes as I ended up using to make it into a pizza, I would have been successful with the baguettes too, I'm sure.This recipe is definitely on my list to try again, now that I know what to expect and how to remedy it. I can see this becoming a new pizza crust family favorite!
To Mr. Reinhart: If your ears were burning this afternoon, I apologize for all the filthy, foul names I called you. I didn't mean any of them, swears.To Nicole at Pinch My Salt: Thank you again for including us all in your challenge. I'm still having a blast!
































Pizza Pillows (Homemade Pizza Rolls)

















